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The three 3D printing technologies used on textiles: FDM, SLS and direct-to-textile

By Anastasia Pistofidou · Updated 2026-09-11 · 2 min read

FDM SLS direct-to-textile materials TPU 3D printing on textiles

Three technologies are used with textiles today, and they differ in materials, in cost, and in who can use them.

Slide comparing FDM, SLS and direct-to-textile 3D printing
The three technologies side by side in the Fabricademy Week 7 slides.

1. Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)

A filament is melted and extruded layer by layer. Materials: PLA, TPU and other flexible filaments. This is the technology most printed textile work starts with, because it is affordable, available in every lab, and can print directly onto a stretched fabric or through a mesh.

Its limit is resolution and speed: fine detail is slow, and the bond to cloth depends on temperature and travel more than on the machine.

PLA rigid filament: a printed triangular lattice on black netting, held in a hand
Rigid filament: a PLA lattice printed onto black netting.
TPU flexible filament research by Ana Correa
Flexible filament: TPU research by Ana Correa.

2. Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)

A laser fuses powder, usually polyamide (nylon PA12) or TPU powder. No supports to remove, no layer direction to design around, and mechanical properties much closer to a real textile — which is why print-in-place interlocking and chainmail-like structures are usually made in SLS powder.

It needs an industrial machine, so small studios normally order parts from a service bureau. Print cost scales with the volume of the whole build chamber, not with your piece alone.

Chainmail armour-like printed structures
Chainmail and armour-like structures — the kind of geometry SLS makes possible.
Interlocking printed structure, chainmail-like
Interlocking links: printed as one piece, moving like a textile.

3. Direct-to-textile

A print head deposits photopolymers and elastomer resins straight onto fabric — the industrial version of printing on a textile. Stratasys' J850 TechStyle is the reference machine, and it prints multi-material, full-colour patterns with the fabric held flat and indexed through the printer.

This is where colour and precision are best, and it is the least accessible: the hardware is industrial, and the workflow assumes a production partner.

Which one for a printed textile project

FDM SLS Direct-to-textile
Materials PLA, TPU, flexible filaments PA12, TPU powder Photopolymers, elastomer resins
Bond to fabric printed onto or through mesh usually printed as the textile itself printed directly onto the textile
Machine access any lab service bureau or industrial lab industrial partner
Best for swatches, student work, garments in many small pieces interlocking and chainmail structures, fine lattices full-colour patterns and multi-material surfaces

In this library, FDM work sits in 3D printing on fabric and elastomers, while SLS structures — where the print is the textile — are collected under 3D chainmail.

Compiled by Anastasia Pistofidou for the Fabricademy Week 7 class, "Computational Couture".

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